Aircraft owners know that an aircraft not flown regularly is subject to rusting of the internal engine parts. This rust causes engine wear and shortens engine life. Water collects in the engine from two sources. First, moisture is a byproduct of combustion. When you shut your engine down, the crankcase is filled with hot gasses containing a high percentage of moisture. As the engine cools, this moisture condenses and water forms. ( This is why you see water droplets on the dipstick cap when checking the oil level.) Secondly, daily changes in temperature, humidity, and barometric pressure force moist air into the engine. Cool evening temperatures then cause this moist air in the engine to condense forming droplets on the precision engine parts. Over time this moisture leads to RUST. Cool air temperatures that occur in the early morning cool the metal engine parts. Whenever the temperature of the metal parts falls below the dew point temperature of the moist air inside the engine, water droplets form. If you can reduce the humidity level of the air inside the engine, (lower its dew point temperature below the outside air temperature,) you can prevent water from ever forming on the engine parts. This is what the Engine Saver does. Oil companies spend millions on developing additives to protect the engine parts from the water droplets and prevent rust formation. However, the best way to protect your engine from internal rust is to prevent moisture from forming in the first place.- No water, No rust!
The Engine Saver is an electrically powered device that produces a constant supply of very low humidity, low pressure air. This low humidity air is then introduced into the engine crankcase through the breather. The system builds up a slight pressure in the crankcase. this fills the crankcase with dry air, and the pressure forces the dry air past the piston ring end gap, into the top cylinder area, and finally out an open intake or exhaust valve. The system bathes the entire internal surfaces of the engine with low humidity air preventing the formation of water.
The Engine Saver consists of a 110VAC electrically powered low pressure air pump, a chemical dehumidifier which absorbs the moisture from the air passing through it, and a special adaptor for introducing the dry air into the engine. The components are conveniently mounted on a metal base with integral handle for easy carrying. A four ft. tube with the special adapter is supplied to fit into the engine breather tube where it extends from the bottom of the cowl. The adapter is fitted with a series of foam disks that easily shape to fit most engine breather tubes.
The updated Smart Engine Saver is a microprocessor controlled unit that has been designed to provide good engine protection while maximizing the useful time before the chemical dryer has to be recharged. The Smart Engine Saver is easy to use. At the end of a flight, simply push the Engine Saver adapter into the end of the engine breather tube where it extends from the bottom of the cowl, and plug the unit into a standard electrical outlet. When initially turned on, the Smart Engine Saver will run continuously for one hour. This hour of operation will purge the moist gasses from the crankcase, and as the engine cools, prevent the formation of water from the combustion byproducts. It also establishes a dry environment within the entire engine. After the initial one hour operating, the system starts the monitoring mode. The electronics measure the temperature and humidity levels of the outside air, and based on this determine how long to turn the pump on. in order to achieve good engine protection while maximizing the operating life of the chemical dryer material. On hot humid days, it operates the pump for longer times. On cold dry days, it operates it less. The system consumes only 3 watts of power and can run for a full month for less than a dollar.
The dryer assembly efficiently removes moisture from the air. The dew point of the air leaving the dryer can be lower than -100 degrees F. This means that the temperature of the metal engine parts would have to drop lower than 100 degrees below 0 F before moisture would form in your engine. The system is designed to run continuously and unattended. The dryer has sufficient capacity to effectively remove moisture for at least 30 days. (actual time is dependent on temperature and humidity conditions at your location. Some owners report getting up to 4 months useful life before recharging). The dryer material contains indicator beads that change color as moisture is absorbed. When the unit is new, the beads are blue. As moisture is absorbed, the beads turn red. When most of the beads have turned red, The dryer must be removed and the desiccant recharged. This is accomplished by placing the beads in an oven and heating them until they change back to the original color.
The Engine Saver will work with most piston engines, including those that have an oil separator. It does not require any installation. It does not require FAA approval.
Ive had an Engine Saver for my Cirrus SR-22 for about 2 years. I havent run any tests but I do keep it connected to my engine all the time. I have an Air Wolf Air/Oil separator so I cant use the breather tube on the bottom of the engine since it is disconnected. Instead, I pull out the oil dipstick and insert the tube from the Engine Saver into the oil fill port, pushing the supplied wider foam rubber grommet past the breather tube inside the oil filler. Seems to work well with the only downside being that I have to wait for the engine to cool so it wont melt the foam rubber grommet.
I purchased this unit for my 182S Skylane. Living on the coast in NE obviously is a humid climate so I really needed to do something for my engine. Not everything fit (i.e., the wand for the oil breather tube - because the breather tube has two cut outs about 1 up from the exit port, in case of ice clogging it). With a 3 long piece of 1/2 flexible clear plastic tubing attached to the wand, and sticking it up about 2 ft into the oil breather tube, seemed to work well. But now I wanted to know exactly how the desiccant unit actually was doing!. So for $20 I bought on-line a humidity monitor (AcuRite 00611A3 Wireless Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer and Humidity Sensor) and rigged up a water bottle (to hold the outside temp/humid sensor inside) to the oil fill port - dip stick hole. Damn! The gizmo actually works. if the temp is 55 degrees, 45% humidity, the unit will drop it down to 19% humidity. Sooooo...the unit works and I feel confident the camshaft and other internal parts in this Lyc IO-540 are dry.
The Cardinal flyers recently reviewed engine dehydrators and data derived from humidity data loggers. Individuals ran tests using dehydrators that circulated ambient air thru a dehydrator, into an engine and out a vent. Others created a closed loop, recirculating air from the crankcase vent to the oil fill tube, which achieved RH as low as 5%. Others compared the effect of humidity on high-carbon steel strips cooked in various engine oils and corrosion inhibitors along with untreated steel. At 5% RH none of the strips corroded, including the bare steel. Visible corrosion began to appear at 15% RH and rapidly took over at 30% RH and above. Strips treated with various corrosion inhibitors and oils delayed corrosion with time, but none prevented it. The bottom line is that recirculating air thru a dessicant produces the driest air inside the engine, and the drier the air, the less things corrode. All corrosion inhibitors and oils fail with time because they drain off or oxidize.
I have not yet used the Engine Saver on my engine. I decided to test it first. I ran the device for three days in a 60% humidity environment. I placed the outlet tube (which is designed to be placed in the engine breather tube ) in a sealed plastic garbage bag. The low pressure air ultimately inflated the bag as would be expected. Inside the bag I had placed a remote wireless hydrometer so that I could get a readout on the humidity levels inside the bag. Over the course of 2 days the humidity was reduced to 24%. After 2.5-3 days humidity was reduced to 16%. I ran the Engine Saver in this configuration with the inflated bag for a fourth day. The humidity level stabilized at 16%. I would say It works!. This should be a marked improvement over letting my aircrafts engine sit cold-soaked in a humid environment. Now to try it on the engine. I give the Engine Saver a tentative 4 stars for now awaiting a real world test.
The instructions dont have any pictures, and even though it came mostly assembled, I had some confusion reading them. I had to go to the Aircraft Spruce website to look at the picture of the product, which was only partly helpful since its not shown completely assembled. The motor is supposed to turn on an off automatically based on relative humidity and temperature, to be effective without unnecessarily saturating the desiccant. So far it has been fairly cold and dry where I am. I would think that would make for dry air, but every time Im in the hangar the pump has been running. I do feel much better about the time my aircraft has to be parked. Hopefully this device will extend engine life. Its comparatively cheap insurance if it helps.
Easy and complete install time will tell on the performance. My airplane is in a very moist environment.
No, the air will pass through the oil, and the engine saver with a little time will dry up the moister in the aircraft. It is normal that the oil and some moister comes out the tube. When a engine shuts down, the hot gas turns to moister/water. That is what causes problems for the engines. The engine saver dries up the moister. Any water in the breather tube will not flow back into the engine saver.
15"L x 5-3/4"W x 10-1/4"H
Yes, it does come with the hose and other parts to install. You can view test data and the installation instructions by clicking on the links at the end of the overview description on our web site.
The average lifespan of the pump is around 3-4 years.
Per supplier: Our unit has a low level air output, it is not designed to be split between two engines. I do know some of our customers have done it and have not had any issues, but we couldn't guarantee enough airflow to maintain positive pressure in both engines to keep the outside air from coming in.
They turn blue when they are dried out. The vendor said, to start at 300 degrees for about 45 minutes and then check every 15 minutes after that until blue.
Unless there is an excessive amount of oil coming out of the breather it should not make it into the unit or dessicant beads.
Yes they are universal.