|Crankshaft seal (molded lip on outside surface - solid type - three grooves for glue retention)|
Great oil seal. The finishing and manufacturing features jumps out on your eyes way ahead from competition. It snapped right in after stretching it with the ATS tool. The only thing I did not like is the spring with the tread connection feature. I used the one with the hooks at the end from the other brand. Way easier to close the spring ring around the crankshaft. Run the engine for 7 minutes next day after 24 hours RTV seal curing. Works like a champ.
Works well. Follow lycoming instructions for installation. Be sure to properly prepare crankcase before installation. Must be properly cleaned so glue will adhere.
Install the spring on crank/prop shaft after seal bore is prepped but before the seal is stretched over the flange. Stretch the spring evenly and smoothly over its whole length just enough to screw the ends together. Then stretch the seal over the flange and work the spring into the seal groove.
Follow Lycomings Service Letter for installation. The new spring is a screw in connection. I found it impossible to reconnect because my fingers were to big to fit in the space between the crankshaft flange, new seal and the case. I reused the old hook style spring which installed easily. So my advise is dont wreck the old spring when removing the old seal
The lycoming crankshaft seal Part # 13792 does include the coiled spring inside the seal.
The LW-13792 is a solid seal and the LW-11997 is a split seal. Split seals are easier to install, while the solid seals seem to last longer.
Yes, these are the same parts.
LW-13792 is the Lycoming version of the Superior SL-13792. These parts are interchangeable.
Per the installation instructions you would used Dow Corning 737 (09-05339.)