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SKY-TEC PULL START CONVERSION STARTER C12ST2/S

$617.00/Each
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Part# 07-00719
MFR Model# C12ST2/S

Overview

SKY-TEC C12ST2/S - FAA PMA certified replacement starter for IO240 and 2009-on O200 engines. About 5 lbs. lighter than stock OEM starters. 2-Year factory warranty. No modification required for IO-240 and 2009-on O200 engines.

Order C12ST2/S only if fitting a newer IO240 or 2009+ O200 engine.

If your aircraft has an older A65-12, A75-12, C85-12, C90, C145, O200 or O300 with TCM's pull-type starter, order the complete pull-start conversion kit, KCST2, P/N 07-00721 instead (see "alternate items").

If your aircraft has a GO-300 with the pull-type starter, order KCST2/SR, P/N 07-01856 (see "alternate items").

Features

  • 9.2 lbs.
  • Bolt-off / Bolt-on
  • High Torque
  • Reliable Design
  • 2-Year Factory Warranty
  • For Pull-Start A75-12 through O-300-C engines previously modified for Push-Button Starters
  • Bolt-off / Bolt-On Installation
  • Includes Gasket
  • PMA Certified
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  • Frequently Purchased With
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Reviews

Always good support and fast shipping.

Terry W
September 15, 2019

I just tackled the installation of a new starter on my C-150B. The most challenging part of the process is cutting off the old starter's pinion shaft from inside the case of the engine. If you follow the pictures posted on the Sky-tec website http://www.skytecair.com/Converting_Pull.htm the process is much easier. I cut a piece of cardboard(took a couple of times of fitting and re cutting) and used clay to fill the gaps between it and the case. This worked perfect to keep the broken cut-off wheels and the cutting debris from entering the engine. I fed a drop light between the firewall and engine mount to adequately light up the area. I also stood on 2 step ladders on the left side of the nose and actually worked from above, not from the side. I did make two cuts on the shaft to allow the final cut to be almost flush with the case. The first cut took off about 2 and the final took off the remaining 3/8s of the post. Hold your cutter firmly and squarely so you dont slip off and either nick the case or nick the gear teeth that are right below the shaft. If you have a very thin piece of stainless sheeting, you may want to tape it to the top of the gear and below the shaft before cutting (just in case you slip). I did my final dressing of the stub with a dremel tool flat grinding stone. I then vacuumed out the entire area and flushed the remaining crud out of the area with solvent. I feel that most everything was washed out, which was a concern prior to starting. This took about 4.5 hours for everything(removal of old starter, cable, T handle and firewall bracket, cutting off pinion shaft & cleaning cavity, installation of new starter, wires, push button and reinstalling the cowl). A project like this is very intimidating but is really not that bad. And you talk about spinning the prop...WOW! I should have done this years ago. The weight savings is huge(about 8 pounds)!!

Ken H
December 11, 2014

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